The topic of Smell Festival 2017 is “Roots”, DFG1924 is a brand with strong bonds to its past and family traditions: was it difficult to develop the creative process for the fragrances combining the imposing historic memory of the brand with the raw materials typical of contemporary perfume? How were the creations composed in terms of the history of the brand and the tastes of its modern audience?
The fragrant world of DFG1924 arose from desire to combine the past and present of the brand’s history. This common thread has been fulfilled with the creation of 3 lines of perfumery: for the Spezieria Officinale line, we were inspired by the classic, historical criteria of major perfume families; for the Asolo Perfumes line we then inserted newer notes, enticement for demanding customers. Finally, for the Acque Odorose line we worked with several modern solutions, bearing in mind the wear-ability of these fragrances in the current context of perfumery.
Compared to other houses that externalize their production, DFG1924 has the ability to develop its perfumes internally: from the formulation to the preparation of the concentrate, to the maturation in alcohol, through the steps of filtering and bottling. How important is it for a fragrance creator like you to have control of the production phases and to follow them, step by step, as if it were a “craft” production?
The brand, DFG1924, belongs to Kalis srl, a company with 30 years of experience in cosmetics and a thorough knowledge of raw materials, products and the related transformation processes. Within this context, for me, in addition to the creation of the perfume, having the ability to personally control and perform certain stages, such as the mixing and maturation of the fragrance, is of undoubted importance. Sometimes, during product development, scaling from a few milliliters to dozens of liters, the final perception of the perfume can change. This makes it necessary to intervene, correcting the final formula so that everything remains true to the original concept.
The DFG1924 perfumes have a strong bond with the area and its history, so much so that one of the three lines is dedicated to the city of Asolo. Roberto, how does the context where you live and the smells that characterize them influence and inspire your creative work?
The creation of the Asolo Perfumes line has been characterized by the search for inspiration in the field, taking notes of the olfactory sensations during my visits to Asolo and its surroundings, sensations that I later developed in the perfumes. The floral themes of the Giardino di Freya and the aromaticity of Cento Orizzonti come from these experiences.
Roberto, you have a strong background as an independent fragrance creator and as craftsman. For years you have written a fascinating blog dedicated to your work, to your discoveries, and to your experiments, for example the creation of an incense based on the ancient recipes of the Kyphi. Today you are a highly esteemed fragrance creator and you offer a number for professional services, from formulation to education. Have you set any new professional objectives?
From a number of years I have been interested in the world of sensory analysis, that is, the use of all five senses to measure the quality of the world surrounding us, both the tangible and intangible products. With this experience, I have worked on several multisensory projects, where smells were the complement of books, photographic exhibits, literary and multivision events.
Making the perceptive experience of the audience fuller and more thrilling by engaging their senses knowingly is fascinating and highly satisfying.
In the near future, my project to create and launch a line of personal perfumes lives on.